Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Camels, sand, dunes, heat and shopping malls everywhere......welcome to Dubai











The first thing that hits you once you get off a plane in Dubai is that it is hot! The second thing is that it is EXTREMELY hot and you don't seem to notice pretty much anything else until you have become a bit more acclimatised.



We had fun at the airport and thought we were back home when we gave our cab driver the name of our hotel and he then asked us for directions!!




We had a fantastic night in the desert where our 4 wheel driver took us dune bashing(he had the sick bags at his side in case we needed them) It was fun, thrilling and very memorable. We then were invited to participate in sand-skiing down the dunes- we decided to watch! Camel riding (YES Ms X did do it!) and dinner in a private camp in the desert where we had an authentic Arabian meal which was delicious, complete with henna tattooing, shisha pipes and a bellydancer providing the entertainment,



Only in Dubai.......



  • Does it rain 5 days max a year and then it is only a shower
  • Does it have 2 seasons....hot and very hot with August reaching 45-50c
  • Does it have a DUPLICATE Market (meaning all the fake stuff) that's what they call it
  • Does a place boast artificial waterfronts everywhere
  • Can it rely almost solely on desalinated water and have parks, gardens and lush lawns
  • Can a person face huge fines if they injure a camel or a date palm tree that are both sacred
  • Can you have a tower 530m tall with the infrastructure ready to add more levels if another country suddenly outdoes it
  • Can you have a huge shopping mall complete with indoor ski slopes and all snow sports of offer

Dubai wants to be the brightest, the biggest, tallest, shiniest, richest, happiest place on the planet. It may be some of these but it certainly is a duplicate city. A place that is trying to be someone else. It lacks a heart.....we found the heart during our night in their desert....maybe that's where they should restart their building projects )

plus it didnt have any dogs or pets and Mr and Ms X thought that also showed it lacked some soul

Monday, June 23, 2008

Adorable Athens

On top of the Acroplolis in front of the Pathenon
At the 2004 Olympic Games site

What else, another dinner with an Athens sunset


Well, to be honest we were in two minds about Athens. Maybe it was because we were starting to feel a little tired (wonder why) or maybe it was because we really didn't want to leave Santorini however we loved Athens the moment we got off the high speed catamaran, looking lost and a kind Greek man asked us where we were going , virtually put us on the correct train and then checked with us again before he got off at his earlier stop. We knew then and there that there was something nice about this place.

It helped that our accommodation was also in a pretty central place that seemed to never go to sleep.... Placka is a maze of little streets that meander around, full of tavernas and shops all being watched over by the amazing Acropolis which was about 500 metres from our hotel. We spent a morning visiting the Olympic 2004 facilities....terrific facilities but sadly let go....Mr X quite devastated however Ms X believes that the I.O.C should assist in maintenance issues or in the allocations of the games in the first place as Athens obviously has other priorities.(the Olympic Games politics was debated here!) The afternoon was spent on a tram going to one of Athens beaches. We relented and rented a lounge and umbrella and had a great afternoon.
The following day was spent climbing the Acropolis and viewing the Parthenon. It was a tad hot and blustery.....no, it was actually blowing a gale and was seriously hot and we nearly got blown off the Acropolis whilst Ms X waited for her text messages on the Pies against the Doggies.

Things to love about Athens:



  • The PEOPLE...... they have now shot to the top of our league ladder of our favourite Europeans.. so friendly, laid back and love a chatter and a joke


  • The food.............something for everyone and even Mr X! Ms X got so excited she even bought a recipe book.


  • The metro...........the CLEANEST we have travelled on by far.....not even 1 cigarette butt on the tracks so Mr X reported

  • The Greek dogs.......they are all around, lying in the shade or even on top of the acropolis! They are all well fed and cared for and they don't get up for anyone, except Mr X when he wanted to wake them from their slumber....you gotta love the Greek dogs


  • The history (Mr X's contribution) Ms X had another history lesson.

Bye bye Athens, we had a great time meeting with you all.



Pensione George


Leaving Sorrento was another memorable experience. We caught the bus back to Naples at 6:30 in the morning, and I believe the only humans to have travelled at a similar speed before were the astronauts on the Apollo Space Missions. Not only that, if one could imagine the Great Ocean Road being half as wide, surrounded on one side by century-old buildings and on the other by 1000 foot drops, and every man and his dog, and bus, and bike, and hay cart and practically every other mode of transport known to man sharing these confined tracks of fragmented asphalt, then you've got some idea of what Mr and Ms X experienced on their way to Naples. Pope Benedict would have been impressed with Mr X exiting the bus and kissing the ground, such was his relief at surviving the journey to retell the story for you all.


Caught the plane to Athens airport, an impressive legacy of the 2004 Olympics. Situated about 40 minutes by train (140 minutes by a Naples train), it is a gleaming structure that impressed us greatly. So much so that an 8-hour wait for our connecting flight seemed to take no time at all, and after 480 minutes in the one airport we felt just like Tom Hanks in "The Terminal". We knew every shop, face and toilet in the place, and it was with some relief that our flight to Santorini eventually took off at 10:00pm that night. And upon arrival, we got an immediate taste of what a laid-back lifestyle they have on this Greek resort island, because the terminal was closed and we couldn't get off the tarmac because their one and only exit door was locked. That didn't deter one official casually sauntering up after about 15 minutes, unlocking the door and strolling off. Even better was by the time we collected our bags and walked outside, there was Pensione George holding up his sign for the weary O'Dowds to see - beautiful....a lift to the hotel, where we were then greeted outside by George's English wife Helen. They certainly are friendly in Santorini.


A terrific room awaited us, complete with air-con, a TV, en suite, kettle and a view of the pleasant Mediterranean. And all this for the bargain basement price of 35 euros a night. Throw in the taxi service here and to the port, the free bottled water and the magnificent outdoor pool, we thought pretty soon they would be paying us!
Next day we arose, showered, embraced the heat and hired a smart car for 70 euros for 2 days from the first car rental company we came across. The laid back style continued, because when I first of all said I would like to book a car for tomorrow, he said, "OK, its booked". I stood there waiting for him to take my details down, but he repeated "I remember you...its booked!" We then reconsidered and decided to take it for the 2 days, so he asked for our credit card and proceeded to take its imprint by using the back of a biro and rubbing it over carbon paper. You've got to love the Greeks.

Driving around the island, the place is full of car/vesper/4-wheel motor bike rentals, and just about every tourist was driving one. Didn't matter about the narrow roads, or no helmets, or no speed zones, and sheer unprotected cliffs...everyone seemed to be in a happy, jovial and courteous mood. And all over the island were dogs. Big dogs, little dogs everywhere. Not one of them on a lead and most of them sound asleep in the middle of roads, footpaths and shops. Everyone simply walked or drove around them. We checked out Thira, the capital, then drove down to Pirreas Beach, a lovely area full of volcanic black sand (really pebbles), crystal clear water and lovely idyllic restaurants right on the beach. We found one where the service was impeccable and the drinks extremely reasonable. Returned to Pensione George and sat around the pool for a couple of restful hours, then had a chip and a dip followed by a traditional Greek meal around the corner. Ms X had moussaka and Mr X had chicken schnitzel....very traditional!
The next day we got up early and dumped our dirty clothes around the corner at a laundry service, and then went for another drive, this time down to the Port, where the entry road zigzagged its way dangerously down a precipitous mountain, with every second vehicle being an enormous bus that disregarded anything or anybody in their path. We quickly bought out return ferry tickets for tomorrow and escaped back up to the relative safety of the top of the mountain, where we once again returned to our nice restaurant from the night before, had a dip in the Mediterranean, attempted to lie on our towels on the extremely uneven and uncomfortable stones, then retired to the bar and had a couple of well-earned drinks. Returned to collect our washing and found another local restaurant where we once again savoured Greek food, with both Mr and Ms X choosing pork and chicken souvlaki respectively.

Santorini indeed was a delightful place for some R&R, so it was with some regret that we had to leave the following day. I returned the dinky toy to the rental business, then Pensione George's cousin drove us down to the port. I'm sure he was related to the bus driver from Sorrento, such was the break-neck speed and wanton disregard for anyone else on the road, let alone the horrific cliffs we were descending. However we somehow got there in one piece, climbed aboard the fast-track ferry and wound our way for the next 4 hours back across the Mediterranean to Athens.

We'll be back one day, Sorrento!





Our visit was short but well worth it. As we had flown into Naples with a view to having a visit to Pompei, we had taken advice and chose NOT to stay overnight in Naples.......great \advice after we took a quick look at Naples( they are STILL in the middle of their Rubbish strike and rubbish piled high in street)

SO.............

we opted for jumping on local train to Sorrento, start of Amalfi Coast and what a great option that was. Our B&B was beaut with lots of home away from home comforts. Spent the afternoon strolling and sitting on clifftop debating on whether we could be stuffed going down cliff to beach.... we opted for sitting in wine bar at top of cliff and having the BEST, FREE entertainment you could ask for. We watched 5 weddings come and go in the space of 2 hours, complete with horse drawn carriages, tackily dressed bridesmaids, tackier dressed guests,brides and bridegrooms necking stubbies of Amstel beer and crazy wedding planners who insisted on bizarre wedding shots. It seems this is the place for pommie couples to come and get hitched!
(the 3rd photo shows one bridal shot with bride lying down on steps and groom, in military uniform was then placed in a suggestive pose, will leave it all to your imagination........Mr and Ms X feel cheated with their wedding album!)

The place is great and we were sad to say goodbye the next day but we hope to return ond day and have time to go out to Capri and beyond.

Thanks to History


A train to Naples and then a local connection took Mr and Ms X to the ancient ruins of Pompeii. The sight of Naples from the train was enough to make us continue on, as it was wall to wall blocks of dirt, run-down apartments, with washing overhanging every balcony, graffitti on every inanimate object and a general feeling of uneasiness, the first time we had felt like this since arriving in Europe. The trains were a psychadelic concoction of loose parts that masqueraded as a transport vehicle, and the smell of sweat and BO contributed to our gut feelings about the place. So it was both a relief and a blessing when we alighted at Pompeii, and joined the relatively short queue to enter the once thriving Roman city. They say that in some peverse way it was the volcanic eruption you had to have, as the whole place is eerily stuck in a time warp, circa 79AD. Even the mummified remains of humans who are forever frozen with their arms outstretched towards the skies, trying to gasp for air as the hot mud enveloped them, and dogs who remain sleeping, unaware of the devastation going on around them before being suddenly overwhelmned by the ooze.
And all this with the haunting Mt. Versuvius overlooking the scene in the foreboding background, ready to spill it's guts once again at a moments notice (the last time in fact was in 1944).
The cobblestoned streets seem to speak to the curious tourists, as you walk into each of the houses, listening to the walls speak and reliving what life must have been like all those years ago. Pompeii was essentially a resort town for the rich and famous, and every house had its own unique and quirky subleties that differentiated it from its neighbour. Essentially, nothing much has changed compared to modern society. There were swimming pools, theatres, shops, markets, backyards, courtyards, town squares, sophisticated kitchens and outdoor recreation areas. There is still a lot of excavation work going on, and the vastness of the area and the length of the streets surprised us both. Also the fact that everyone was allowed to enter most of the buildings and touch the talking walls was a pleasant surprise, and the place seems to be well respected by everyone who visits.
However, walking along the uneven streets and peering into every nook and cranny is a tiring business, and after 3 hours, Julius and Minerva X had had enough and headed back to the train station to catch a connecting bucket of bolts to Sorrento, about half an hour away.
And what a contrast Sorrento is to Naples. Set atop a dominating cliffline on the Amalfi Coast, Sorrento is a seaside resort that boasts magnificent views and interesting shops and roadways.

Monday, June 16, 2008

The past comes alive in Roma!

1. Parking your car in the Roman style!
2. In front of Trevi Fountain





3. Mr X in front of St Peters Basilica
4. Ms X is St Peter's Square
5. In the Collesum
6. Ms X tempts fate with The Mouth of Truth (from Roman Holiday!)

7. Mr X in the Roman Forum (Romulus' Temple)


Our accommodation in Roma was a stone's throw from Termini Station and held a treat for Mr X......a lift, which is very rare in Europe. We were greeted at our B&B by our hostess with cold cappuccino in hand for Ms X-guess it's the thought that counts. The place only had 2 rooms and our hostess also provided us with TV, DVD, MP3 player, slippers and a set of scales and a late model computer complete with unlimited Internet.....beautiful! (hence we have downloaded photos and updated blog in evening)

Got going via metro to Vatican city and had been warned about long queues and waiting times. Also saw 'George W' LIVE on midday news with the Pope so were unsure about whether we would get in or not that day given the Pope had been entertaining visitors. But, not a problem!


Upon entering Catholic Headquarters, St Peters Square, you are simply overwhelmed by the sheer size. You could probably fit 4 MCGs inside the square (which is really a circle) We made our way down below to where the popes are all buried and then entered the Basilica. Now, Mr and Ms X are fast becoming experts on churches, cathedrals and basilicas and they are not biased however this one pretty much takes the prize. It is not overdone and is not filled with military statues like some. Ms X was keen to find her favourite Pope's remains (John 23rd)as she reckons he has always been the most progressive before moving on to the Vatican Museums. Rooms and rooms and rooms of Greek and Roman artifacts, statues, tapestries, art all displayed in lavish style. We finally reached the Sistine Chapel and just stared with open mouths at Michaelangelos handiwork.


The following day was spent at the Colosseum which was right up Mr X's alley.He was easily transported back in time to gladiator days. The whole place still looks like it could fall down at any time but this was another one of those 'pinch yourself' moments. After 2 hours it was time to move on to the Roman Forum where Mr X delivered the missing chapters in Ms X's deprived education which was followed by a trip down memory lane reminiscing about chariot races in Circus Maximus..........now Ms X feels obliged to come home and hire a copy of Gladiator to watch but she draws a line at Ben Hur(not crazy about Chuck Heston)


On to 'The Mouth of truth'................anyone seen Roman Holiday?? and then to Trevi Fountain with all the hoardes of tourists. We both turned our backs and threw the obligatory 2 coins in each- one so you will return to Rome one day and the other for your wish to come true.


Our final day in Rome started with us both listening to the footy live through the internet as both Geelong and Coll were playing: Mr X happy with result and for some strange reason, Ms X decided to cut short her listening! Went to Mass at Rome's Cathedral (Basilica di San Giovanni) which is considered the Mother Church for Catholics.(this was news to us) Walked on to the Pantheon, drinks in Piazza Navona and then ice-cream at the Spanish Steps which are bloody hard work to find.


Observations of Rome:


  • The police are fascinating- they are everywhere and we are not sure if you were in trouble they could help you but if it was a smoke, a bottle of wine, some take-away, some directions or simply some social chit-chat that was needed, then not a problem (we witnessed it all)

  • OH&S officeres would have a field day here. Footpaths that disappear, footpaths with missing chuncks out of them etc....

  • Creativity with parking is encouraged. Just find a space and squeeze in- it doesnt matter what angle everyone else is or dont worry if thats a pedestrian crossing under your car when you leave it there "It doesnt matter" Anyone who knows Ms X well would know how well she would cope with this!

  • And if you are getting married then have all your family and friends follow you around the city in their cars honking their horns constantly


Sunday, June 15, 2008

Ms X is finally in the real Tuscany!




1. The Ponte Vecchio
2. In the Piazza del Duomo
3. Ms X in the window of our room at the convent overlooking their gardens
After circling Florence for an hour in the heat (backpacking with our wheels) we finally found the Casa Santo Nome di Jesu Convent (only to realise that in reality it was 15 mins from station if we had taken the correct route). Well, we were not disappointed when we eventually arrived as the place was fantastic, set in beautiful gardens, surrounded by a high wall right in the middle of a bustling city. Our room was huge with a 'sistine-like' ceiling, 2 magnificent amories, 3 beds, a bathroom and a view over the gardens.
We made our way to the restaurant recommended by the receptionist with ms X ordering well, however Mr X ordered the Florentine beef, that he believes was still out the back mooing 5 mins before it landed on his plate, and even then it was still breathing.
Only down side of staying in a convent is the fact that they love to ring bells....often! Made our way to the Ponte Vecchio, a bridge that contains many, many jewellery shops and other market-like stalls. Mr X made a purchase of a gold cross for his chain after visiting a multitude of shops. Ms X did some very fancing bartering knocking off 65€ from the starting price and scored a leather coat (...only problem is how to get it in the luggage). In the rain again making our way to see Michaelangelo's David however, the queue and the rain made us both make an executive decision to skip seeing David (we would catch up on some of M's work in Rome).
Found ourselves outside the Cathedral di Santa Maria de Fiore in the Piazza del Duomo which suddenly appears out of nowhere and dominates the landscape- it is the only cathedral we have seen (and we are becoming specialists) where the church looks more impressive outside than inside. The exterior has geometrically patterened bands of white, pink and green marble-magnificent. Inside it is a vast emptiness with no pews. After the 2 worst pizzas in the history of mankind, we headed back to the tranquility of our home-away-from home.
Observations of Florence:
  • Everyone smokes (really smokes) everywhere and anytime
  • Everyone has a dog, and they smoke too
  • Motorcyclist dominate the streets
  • Motorcyclists dont like pedestrians one bit. In fact they have a morbid fascination to kill them
  • Aussies on holiday roaming the streets dont like Florentine motorcyclists
  • Florence has the BEST shopping
  • Florentines are smart, stylish and so well groomed (no Donatellas anywhere in sight)
  • Things are neat, well cared for, clean
  • A certain Ms X plans to return one day (with empty suitcase and credit card)

Train strikes and breakdowns!



On our way back from Monte Carlo, Mr X happened to mention that he overheard something about a train strike. A train strike!!!! We were due to take an overnight train to Florence that night. After enquiring, sure enough there was a 2 day train strike with no Euronight trains going out of France. We had to catch a train to Vintimille (which is just on the Italian border) and then pick up the overnight train. The most fun was had with waiting for the elusive train at one platform only to have the French change the platform at the last minute-you sure have to stay sharp to pick up such things, especially when there are no English announcements.

Got into Florence at 7am so decided to store our bags and jump on a train to Pisa for the morning..... a trip which should take 1 hr. Good plan huh! Three hours later we arrived in Pisa as the Italian trains had track problems- they don't tell you this you just have to work it out. Ms X feeling pretty crappy as she still sees herself in "her pyjamas" (the clothes she slept in from last night)
Pisa is a very old dilapidated university town which bases its whole existence on the Pisa Plaza which is centred around luxurious grass that is chained off so you can't sit on it. There is a grand cathedral that charges an entrance fee, a magnificent Baptistery (another entrance fee) and of course that leaning tower. Now, we are seasoned cathedral visitors and we both have a problem in paying for going inside a church. Incredible as it seems and obviously reinforced with modern technology, this tower looks as though it is ready to topple over at any moment.
But just like the Grand Canyon and the Statue of Liberty, after we had gazed at it for 15 mins we had seen enough and as Mr X has a fear of heights, let alone heights that also lean, we chose not to go up inside it. Trained it back to Florence in the record time of 1 hour.


Thursday, June 12, 2008

Canals by your doorstep

Stepped off the train from Zurich (where we spent another restless night with a little old Italian couple, to be awoken by the conductor at 4:30am), walked through the exit doors and there was Venice...just as one imagines. It could have been a painted scene right there in front of us. Liquid roads of gondolas, boats and canals, and row upon row of old buildings that have somehow stood the test of time and water erosion.....another "pinch oneself" moment. Snapping back to reality, we purchased an all-day pass on a vaperetto (water taxi) and flagfalled our way to our hotel, Hotel Riva, about a 2 minute stroll to the famous St. Marco Square, with our fourth floor room overlooking an inviting and serene canal. Donned the wet weather gear and set off, first exploring the square, then the Basilica where St. Mark is buried. Hopped on another vaperetto for a tour of the place, but would you believe it....Mr and Mrs X are in one of the most beautiful and unique cities in the world, and we were falling asleep! We had both hit the wall. BANG! So we headed back and had a 2-hour nanna nap in the middle of the afternoon. But it had it's desired effect, because we were then revitalised and ready to take on the city. When we re-emerged from our room, as if pre-determined, there was a gondola parked right outside our door, so what the heck, we hopped on board for a romantic half an hour (80 euro) tour as only the movies can provide. It was very romantic and restful, and well worth the money. We even passed the house where Marco Polo lived, as well as Casanova's. A couple of obligatory snapshots later, and we went in search of 'tourista' meal, which we found in the shadows of St Mark's Basilica. One of the only negatives of the day was that EVERYBODY smokes EVERYWHERE. Even in lanes where there weren't any people, the constant smell of smoke just lingered and lingered. Restaurants, boats, etc etc. You name it. You can smoke anywhere and they all did.

The next day the weather improved and it brought everybody out into the streets (or should I say the canals) in their thousands. We strolled around the many islands, with Ms X demanding an obligatory kiss on every bridge we went over! Thirsty work indeed, so a beer or two was needed, which we happened to find sitting beside a canal and enjoying a local pizza. Mr X is still however triyng to locate the ideal pizza, claiming that Maribyrnong's Domino pizzas are as good if not better than the ones he has had over here. A vist to the Guggenhein Prep Classroom (sorry, Museum) beckoned. Mr X tried to make something out of the reason why they charged 10 euros each to get in, but alas, failed. A magnificent house in a superb location, but he reckons the 'art' belonged in a primary school fete, rather than here in Venice. Ms X at least made out she enjoyed the experience, even if deep down she wondered what all the fuss was about.

A rest and an ice cream in one of the very rare parks, and it was time to leave the city of water and head for Nice, so a short vaperator ride took us to the station, where we hopped on board a train and headed for our connection to Florence. Arrived at Florence STM station with a good two hours to spare, so we lounged around, bought some maccas, read a book, and with about 40 minutes to go, Mr X thought he would check to see which platform our train left from. It didn't take long to realise there was no platform for our intended train, as it was leaving from a totally different station altogether....Florence de Campo. In a mad panic we raced around our quickly deserting station, only to be told by the local police that there were no more local trains or buses leaving from this station for the rest of the night. A mad dash outside saw two forlorn taxis waiting, so we climbed aboard the first one, and 15 euros later we were walking on to the correct platform at de Campo station, with about 20 minutes to spare. Climbed aboard, and this time shared our couchette with a Grand Prix loving/Harbijahn Singh loving/ car safety expert Indian couple, and arrived in Nice at 8:45am, after another sleepless night. Mr X figures the cabin is about 4 centimeters too short for a bed, as his head and toes touch both walls on the pull-down bed at full stretch.

Nice, Cannes and Monte Carlo......Mr X aka 007 thought he had a licence to thrill!

Fortunately neither Mr or Ms X needed to break the glass whilst in Monaco
Overlooking Monte Carlo from the top of the rock at the foot of the Palace
Mr X aka 007 about to break the bank at the Casino...

Ms X whiling away the hours on a private beach in Nice-it's a tough life!
Mr X's feet prefers the sand at Fairhaven to the rocks of Nice


Mr X checking out which boat to take to Grumpy










Mr and Ms X found themselves back in France on the French Riviera...ooh la la

Our hotel was in the centre of things and despite checking in early (expecting to leave our bags till after)they greeted us with one of their heart-starter coffees and showed us to our room which was great value. They even offered to help Mr X carry bags

Lots of places closed for the day as it was Sunday- so had a quick breakky/brunch....asked for a toasted ham and cheese and we got ham and 4 kinds of different cheese layered on top, in the middle....the french love their cheese.......Ms X felt it make its way straight to her thighs and her heart

Decided to hop on local bus and visit Cannes for the morning. Think everyone else had the same idea as we had to stand for the 90 min trip and we kissed the ground when we got off as we had a manic bus driver. Cannes is where you go to be seen, and to park your boat basically. They live off the memories of the 2 week Movie festival which had just happened.

Nice is more middle class- lots of Italians and French vacationing as well as poms but it wasn't as crowded as we thought it may be. Had fun exploring and started a regular thing of drinks at the bar at one of the private beaches.In Nice the coastline is divided every 50 metres alternating between private and public beaches. Had intended to rent one of the lounges and umbrellas for the afternoon however soon discovered that it would be 26 euro each we thought a better idea would be to go to public beach and then swap to private for drinks to finish off each day.......great idea, except for the pebbles that are the feature of the Nice beach. We both put on happy faces whilst laying on our towels telling ourselves that this was another one of those holiday special moments!

Highlight of the time on the French Riviera would have to be our day in Monaco/Monte Carlo. the place is amazing and so, so, so immaculate and pristine. they even have a police ratio of 1:60 residents- gonna tell Christine Nixon about that! They also don't pay income tax! Struggling to find a reason why we shouldn't migrate there. Did the touristy thing and struggled up to the top of the rock for the changing of the guard at the Palace with ms X telling Mr X all the information that she had on those Grimaldis, oh and there is so much just about Caroline before you get started on Albert and don't get her started on that Stephanie! Mr X entertained Ms X with all his James Bond movies that were filmed there complete with a very bad Sean Connery accent. Blink and you miss the changing of the guard- they don't go on and on like Betty Windsor and her guards


Now EVERYTHING is on a slope or on a hill or up some stairs and climbing is essential for a visit however we did see some sneaky lifts and escalators around the place but it was always after we had climbed all those stairs. We did find defribulators located all around the city however Ms X was concerned that she had not updated her CPR which was on offer, the week before she left. We even watched a car enter a garage which was a lift and then disappear into the ground like Get Smart- amazing

Once we got past all the flash cars parked at the entrance, we paid our 10euro each to visit the famous Monte Carlo casino- you pay that to enter, you don't get anything for it and they scan your passport and keep it on file as part of the deal. Once inside they even expect you to tip in the toilets (as if!) Mr X wanted to play one hand of blackjack. Sorry sir but the blackjack doesn't open until the evening.First impressions was how small it is- and how much space is available to the public to play. there are private rooms all sealed off down the sides. Look, its grand and lots of art and velvet and gold and we could visualise James Bond sitting at those tables however Mr X was disappointed. However he did come out 5 euro on top after our small flutter.

Monday, June 9, 2008

PICS OF VENICE

the grand canal
Mr X excited about his first Italian pizza
can you see Ms X waving out the window of the hotel (top left)
How romantic

The hills are alive with the sound of ....Mr and Ms X



In front of one of the Von Trapp sights "We are 52 going on 53....." dancing around that gazebo




Well there are not enough superlatives to say about SALZBURG


We loved it and hope to return. Arrived at our very special accommodation at the convent of Christ the King which proved to be terrific for the price howevercheck in proved to be interesting with Sister coke bottle glasses


After quickly exploring the fortress at the top which we accessed via the fenicular it was soon time for THE SOUND OF MUSIC TOUR to re trace the steps of those Von Trapps which Mr X was salivating about........ 4 hrs of Von trapping in fact


It proved to be a great afternoon with a bit of everything thrown in. Mr X even got to taboggan down a luge. A visit to a little town called St Gilgen topped off the afternoon


Wednesday, June 4, 2008

German beer ain't too bad

Woke up in the Bridal Suite fully refreshed and ready to explore Rothernberg. And what a place it is. Perched on top of a mountain (where else), it is a walled town that tastefully caters for tourists without destroying the ambience of the whole area. Another day wouldn't have gone astray here, but our comprehensive yet pressing timetable forced us to part ways with the Romantic Hotel and make our way onwards to Munich. Stephan and his wife Heidi (dressed in the appropriate garb) were wonderful, and treated us perfectly, doing everything possible to make our stay such a pleasant one, albeit too short.

After a couple of errant yet now expected wrong turns, we managed to find our way into Munich. Mr X seemed to find the driving a bit easier than he had anticipated by now, and finally we meandered our way to the Suisse Hotel in downtown Munchen. Checked in, went for a walk down through the Marienplatz Strasse, then on to the Hoffbrau Haus, where Mr and Ms X ordered various forms of sausage and Mr X settled down to the second-biggest beer he had ever seen (the first was in Barcelona). Not long after, a guy in his 40's settled down beside us, and once talking, turned out to be a teacher of economics and gynasium at a nearby school. Rudy was his name, and a friendly and informative chap he was. FIVE beer steins later, and Ms X (after kicking Mr X under the table on a number of occasions) suggested we leave and make our way back to the hotel. After exchanging emails, we said goodbye to our teaching colleague and enjoyed tjhe refreshing walk back to the hotel.

Next day, we enjoyed the basic yet welcoming continental breakfast, dropped off the car at the Avis depot, followed by an amusing series of train rides, attempting to locate the Olympic Stadium, site of the 1972 Olympics and more infamously, the terrorist attack on the Israelis athletes. Due to a mishap in communications with Helpful Harry at the info desk, we finished up at the Munich Soccer Arena, a considerable distance from where we wanted to be. Nevertheless, we forged on, such is our Aussie pioneering spirit, and finally found the evasive Olympic site. And what an impressive complex it is. Considering it is 36 years old, it is still modern by today's standards. The whole area is surrounded by manicured lawns, peaceful lakes and modern architecture that blensds in and gives the overall appearance of a well laid-out sporting complex (but not as good as Melbournes!).

Proceeded back to Marienplatz and wandered around the busy shopping district, bought some chips, dips and bread for an in-house meal back at the Suisse. Both of us have enjoyed seeing Munich, but compared to what we've seen so far, probably at the bottom of the list.

Ich bin ein Madchen!

After 5 years studying German, that's all Ms X could really recall and there's not a lot of opportunities to tell people "I am a girl"!

The train ride to Berlin was an interesting one, because half an hour after leaving Malmo we were directed on to a ferry bound for Germany. The whole process of loading the train on to the ship took nearly and hour, and once aboard we were able to make our way deckside to join in the festivities above the water line, namely restaurants, poker machines, cinema, sightseeing and shopping. Not enough to engage our tastes at this stage, as we were dog tired, so we retired to the haven of our personal cabin. However, it seemed we had only just closed our eyes when the alarm sounded at 5:00am for us to get ready to alight at 6:00. As it was such an ungodly time, we stored our luggage at Berlin's main station, grabbed some breakfast then jumped on an internet cafe machine. By about 10:00 we decided we would get our luggage after all and trudged our way along the strasses, following the remnants of the Berlin Wall to our houseboat, situated right on the Spree River and within about 20 feet of the wall. Once onboard, the young fraulein gratiously let us check in extremely early, which gave us the opportunity to do some washing and catch our breath. The room was great, looking out over the water and practically within touching distance of the graffitti-covered Berlin Wall. Even the water surrounding us was full of fish that would have individually caused the water level down at Grumpy to rise, such was their size!

First port-of-call was the obligatory Free Walking Tour. This time mein host was another Pom called Matt, who took us on a four and a half hour extravaganza of sightseeing and story telling, such were his talents. Such sights as the grand Brandenburg Gate, the Lufftwaffe headquarters, Hitler's Bunker site, the imposing Reichstardt and the Stassi headquarters. (Somehow I wonder what the tourist trade would have been like if it wasn't for the Nazis!). The memorial to the jewish Holocaust was a moving and impressive one, and tastefully done. It was also good to see that Hitler was not glorified in any way, and in fact the german people have gone to extreme lengths to nerase all memories of the monster dictator. Even his bunker had been exploded and flooded. it is now an apartment block carpark.

We rang the girls, had a very relaxing drink in deck chairs along the river's edge, then joined the one-hour queue to enter the Reichstardt (two women behind us were Australian, and one had taught at Altona Meadows PS), where Ms X made her way to the very top to experience a glorious view of Berlin. Chicken-shit Mr X kept his feet firmly planted on the ground floor, such was his continuous inability to cope with heights. An exhaustive trip back to the boat saw us dining beside the wall and indulging in a few convivials whilst aboard. Mr X was so tired and hungry he even ate the only two things left on the menu....vegetarian lasagne and chile concari! The weary travellers had covered an enormous 20.7 kms over the course of the day.

next day we dragged our slightly refreshed bodies down to breakfast, then caught a train to the Sachanhausen Death Camp. This camp was set up by the Nazis as a 'perfect model camp' for all other camps to follow. 300,000 political prisoners and jews were sent there at one stage or another. To walk around the place was eerie. It covers an immense area, with haunting guard towers still spying across the now vacant areas where once so much misery occurred. There was no admittance price, again an appropriate and pleasing aspect of how the present day Germans view what once happened. Even the souvenir shop only contains books and DVD's on the subject. There's no sign of tacky key-rings, fridge magnets or the like. The part that hit Mr and Ms X was the latrine and shower block. We really don't want to go into detail, we're sure the imagination can probably fill in the blanks, but it was a feeling that needed few words. without admitting it to one another, we both had tears in our eyes. Even typing this makes one feel emotional once again. Let's hope we notonly learn from the past, but that we never, ever let anything like this ever happen again.

On the way back, we stopped off at a classy looking restaurant advertising weiner schnitzel, which started Mr X's jaw glands salivating. But what a great disappointmet. Straight out of the freezer from the Baron's table. Deep fried and with french fries! Ms X decided she wanted to see Checkpoint Charlie, which we did, but again was a bit of a disappointment. 90% of the museum was about successful escapes from East Germany, which was interesting but probably not enough to satisfy our combined curiosities. made our way back, and by the time we did arrive at the Houseboat, we had literally hit the wall, which is pretty appropriate considering we were in Berlin!

Tuesday, June 3, 2008

Some pics to bring this blog up to date!

In Copenhagen
......"Now this is living!" ...............in a bar beside the in Berlin

All that Carlsberg to taste in Copenhagen




The canal next to our hotel in Amsterdam

Trains, Planes & Automobiles

Today was a day to remember and a day to forget. We really don't care what Rothenberg is like, we are so dead tired. The walk from the station to the Avis depot was enough, considering we had to wheel the suitcases over 4 kms of uneven cobblestones. We really expected them to tell us they didn't have any cars left, as we had had no confirmation from them at all, but fortunately they had a brand new Fiat ready for us. And then it was time to hit the autobahn. Beautifully sealed, three-laned expressways that incorrectly limit the speed to 120kph, and even 130kph on some stretches. However, hardly anyone keeps to that speed. Only the semi trailers, which is a good thing. In fact, the semis never deviate out of the right hand lane, only to pass another semi. The amazing thing though is that Mr X averaged between 130 and 140 kph's, and was passed by most vehicles as if he was standing still. He maintains they had to be travelling at between 160 and 180, and a couple even faster than that. It was incredible. Not a cop in sight.

After about 2 hours, Ms X suggested we hit the country roads to see a bit of rural Germany. Things were going fine, with us passing through some very quaint but lifeless ski villages, so we decided a bite to eat wouldn't go astray. Ms X had a lovely salad rool, while Mr X is still waiting for his salami toast. It just didn't arrive, and as the waitress did not speak a word of English, it wasn't worth the effort to complain. So he went over to pay the bill, and decided to mimick that he wanted a salad roll to take with him. He pretended to eat and at the same time drive a car, but madame fraulein still looked at him with a blank German face, so we walked out, with Mr X now even hungrier than before. Storm clouds were gathering over his head, but they didn't match the ones coming in from the west. They were as black as batman's undies and as threatening as a Geelong forward thrust, so we decided discretion was the better part of valour and parked the car in a side street to allow the storm to pass. Before we knew it, hailstones as big as marbles were battering the car (sure glad we took out comprehensive insurance in the Italian mini!). Soon it became deafening and real thoughts of permanent damage to the car made us decide to move it to a safer location. It didn't take Mr X long to find a vacant car port belonging to a local resident, who I'm sure wouldn't have minded two scared little Aussies using it as a refuge for the next 45 minutes. Even after that time, it was still a deluge, but at least the damaging hail had stopped falling. Venturing back out into the streets awakened us to the chaotic scenes taking place. The drainage system could not cope with the incessant deluge, and there were already people sweeeping water out of their homes, rivers of stormwater were covering the streets, and even one elderly woman was trying to salvage what she could whilst dressed in her bathers. The car in front of us failed to see the sign in the middle of the road and side-swiped it accidentally. Finally, after many detours by an army of vigilant fire-fighters around flooded areas, we managed to escape the maelstrom and be able to recommence our journey to Rothernberg. But like a shadow you can never catch, so was the mission to find Rothernberg. Town after town, detour after detour because of roadworks (and in Germany, it seems to be the custom that it's OK to put in a detour sign, but its then up to the motorist to find his own way back to the main route). And their other joy in life is to name a town on a sign, then not mention it for the next 50 kilometers, at the same time mentioning every other town in Germany at the many forks in the road. U-turn after u-turn followed, and the air in the car could be cut with a knife. Darkness was approaching, and we were no closer to our destination than we were an hour ago. At one stage we even came to a dead end. There was no more road to go! We found 4 very likeable Germans who didn't speak a word of English between them, including Cousin Eddie from National Lampoon. So they were useless in putting us on the right path. Ms X then rang the Romantik Hotel to tell them not to get rid of our room, and more importantly give us directions, thus enabling us to somehow get back on course, even with Mr and Ms X spending the final 2 hours without any conversation between them what-so-ever!

Finally, we crawled in to a totally dark Rothernberg at 10:30pm, eleven hours after setting sail for what should have been a 4 hour cruise! Now we know how Gilligan and the skipper must have felt.

But the wait and frustration was worth it, because the Romantik Hotel was magnificent. The owner greeted us out in the street as we arrived, took our bags for us, parked the car, gave us the choice of two superb rooms, then cooked us a dinner where we practically licked the plate. During the feast, Mr and Ms X looked at each other across the table and both burst out laughing. It had been a day to remember alright.

Thursday, May 29, 2008

PLEASANTVILLE, otherwise known as Copenhagen

Do you remember that film years ago called "PLEASANTVILLE"? Well if you saw it you would get a handle on Copenhagen cos that´s what it is like. The people are all so friendly and always greet you warmly, the drivers are the most patient and polite we have ever witnessed, everyone is young, blonde and beautiful, they are all so healthy looking and are all attached to their bikes which they scoot around the city on...... Ms X could go on............Our hotel was also the best accommodation so far of the whole trip.....yep, nothing but pluses.

We got taken in by all the stories of their old King Christian 4th who seemed to be responsible for all things good in Copenhagen. When he wasn't fornicating to produce 23 kids that are known about, he was busy building things-castles, summer palaces,moats,bridges and anything else with a foundation basically. His other hobby was posing as there are millions of portraits and statues of him everywhere.

Visited Carlsberg brewery where they even give you 2 free beers before you exit. Nicked around at lunchtime to see the changing of the guard outside Mary and Frederick´s Place which
has no big fence, you could basically walk up and knock on the front door!

Lovely canals, neat and manicured lawns and parks, no graffiti........................all so........pleasant!
It ain´t Tasmania but we think OUR MARY could live in worse places.

Okay, I do have to post some warnings for those considering visiting Mary:

  1. It is expensive and they make you pay for EVERYTHING....even phonecalls when you aren't even connected
  2. The old Danes refuse to adopt the EURO so you end up having to have another currency rattling around in your pockets getting mixed up
  3. Oh, and a lot of places refuse to accept coins! So there you go- if you haven't got a note there is no entry for you or no coffee
  4. Theres a few OH&S issues-just ask Mr X when he nearly had 2 great falls on the cobblestones. Ms X was so worried about who would come off the interchange bench to carry the bags if he was injured and
  5. Ms X got so excited when she saw one of King Christians pieces of lacy underwear that she did not see the glass separating her and the item and she walked smack bang into it-
Otherwise you will have a lovely time in the City of Pleasantville!

Amazing Amsterdam

As stated previously, Amsterdam welcomed us immediately. The trams took us to the doorstep of our hotel which was right on a canal. The narrow steep staircase tested Mr X with 2 pieces of luggage that seem to be getting heavier,but he was up to the challenge of working through such predicaments- Ms X's role was to encourage and offer lots of "Well done, good job, my hero" as Mr X caught his breath at the top of the stairs.

After unpacking we wasted no time in setting out to explore the city so we walked and walked and walked (just for a change) The place was amazing- we felt out of place being on foot as everyone else was biking it ( and despite Ms X pleading to rent some bikes, Mr X just wouldn't give in................no, you don't think it happened that way? You must know Ms X well!)

The narrow houses appeared to be crooked, almost ready to all come down like dominoes if one gave in, however that added to the charm. Everyone seemed to be out in the streets ignoring their "Sunday night wind-downs" of which Mr and Ms X are quite fond. There was a ´Battle of the Cover´ bands going on, bars and restaurants were overflowing and everyone seemed to be having a hell of a good time- a lot like Barcelona. And the extra bonus was that everyone seemed to be fluent in English.

After enjoying a great meal, we stumbled on a beautiful cinema complex, an old theatre which was a cross between The Como Cinema in South Yarra and the Sun Theatre in Yarraville. Two Tickets later found us in Amsterdam's version of GOLD CLASS watching Indiana Jones- subtitled in Dutch.

The next day was rainy and a bit cold however after consuming the hotel breakfast of cold meats, cold egg and cheese, we joined the queue to tour ANNE FRANK`S HOUSE which was a great experience. We both found it very moving and easily spent a couple of hours there. next stop- The RED LIGHT district which Mr X found a bit disappointing and Ms X was happy there were few girls around as the feminist in her made her have mixed feelings about walking around that area- she told herself that they had all found other forms of employment and wouldn't listen to Mr X trying to tell her that they were all upstairs. A bit of culture was needed so there was a trip to see old Rembrandt's house- the house he lived in and painted in before he declared bankruptcy

Mr X seems to be adventurous in his beer tasting but alas not so in his food tasting. Ms X had the traditional Dutch mushy pea soup and a banana pancake for dinner-yummo

Time to board the train again to head off to visit OUR Mary and Frederick in Copenhagen. We were offered a 6 berth couchette compartment......sorry, but all those backpackers together sometimes means party time and we wanted to sleep. We asked for a 4 berth one, happy to pay more, crossed our fingers and what do you know, we ended up having it all to our selves- don´t you just love the Dutch for organinsing that for us!

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

There's nothing like being in 3 countries in one day!

Breakfast in Paris:

Boarded our luxurious Thalys train bound for Brussels- before it had even pulled out from the station they served us lovely breakfast on a tray- a la plane style. very nice and much appreciated by Mr and ms X who were feeling parched and peckish at that stage.

Lunch in Brussels

After 2 hrs our train arrived in Brussels where our plan was to get off and have lunch. Over the last 2 weeks Mr and Ms X have always felt very safe but this all changed in Brussels! What can we say- the moment we walked out of the station there were poor homeless people everywhere, the place was littered with rubbish and debris, bottles etc.... all over the place
Still, the intrepid travellers soldiered on and on and on, on this bright Sunday morning
EVERYTHING was closed, even the churches on a Sunday! So we gave up our idea of lunch, took some happy snaps and headed back to the train

Dinner in Amsterdam

From the moment we got out of the station we LOVED Amsterdam. The trams seemed to be waiting for us as we entered the street outside. We found our hotel easily....it was situated right on a canal- perfect........ and yes, mr and ms X enhoyed a delicious dinner in Amsterdam

Monday, May 26, 2008

J'adame Paris-tres' chic!


























Mr and Ms X loved Paris...it was everthing we thought it would be.

Loved:








  • Loved the metro- Mr X became an expert on all the stations from Pigalle to Abbesses to St Michel. he knew what changeovers we needed and even found escalators and lifts sometimes for ms X's arthritic knee, to avoid all those steps




  • Loved the pastries, the desserts, the dips, cheeses and fresh bread




  • Loved the free 4 hour walking tour- it was fantasic and took us everywhere




  • Loved the Lourve and 'the wedding at Caana'- so big! Ms X loved finding the Vemeer paintings (Mona didnt do it for us- she's so small and who says she's the best!)




  • loved sitting on Champs elyss and having a drink in sidewalk cafe




  • loved standing on the roundabout at the arc de triumph to watch the traffic- this amused us for ages




  • enjoyed finding Rolan Garros and understanding why the Aust Open is number 1




Highlight:





Would have to be our special night at the Eiffel Tower. Sitting in the restaurant on the first level and having our special 3 course meal was fantastic. Mr X even had the apperetif and wine! To see the lights get turned on and then the twinkling fairy light/laser show followed by the cruise in the Seine was a night we will never forget.





Saturday, May 24, 2008

Snaps of Barcelona

Ms X enjoying a breathtaking view of Barcelona waiting for her Sangria(and for the table to be cleared!)

Outside our lodgings in the Gothic Quarter Maze in Barcelona- if only we remembered how to find it after the huge beers and sangrias!




Our first meal in Barcelona, complete with a glass of the amber fluid that could break the drought back in Aus.