In Dublin's fair city

The contrasts between the other bigger city in Ireland, Belfast, stood out straight away. Dublin seemed to be a bit more sorted, grown up and doin' ok. There were less and less boarded up businesses and shops and the 'for sale' signs were not as apparent. 

There was a focus on the Irish music and dancing in most of the pubs around town

and even on buses where Mr X  was even seen to be clapping along to the 'The Gypsy Rover!'

Their history told of the famine and the Easter Rebellion of 1916 and the lasting effects that these two events still have on their day to day life. They lost 3 million during the famine (1 million died and 2 million left) and the population has never recovered since. Even last night's news on TV still spoke about the challenges of increasing the population as election promises in upcoming elections.

  The Kilmainham Gaol where many political prisoners were held.

The many statues that inhabit the Dublin streets attest to the high esteem held for the Easter Rebels and those who followed in the struggle for independence. Their is an US and WE culture apparent in Dublin.

Dublin is also proud of its contribution to culture. James Joyce, George Bernard Shaw and Oscar Wilde are celebrated through the town

and much is made of theatre, film and music with even a U2 graffiti wall down in the docklands area.

Confusion reigned over which cathedral belonged to which denomination, tricking many with the central 'St Patrick's Cathedral' being Anglican. St Patrick sure got around. Everyone  wants to claim him throughout Ireland 

 The Catholics on the other hand are now claiming the two recent saint- additions with banners flying proudly. Not sure what the connections with Ireland were, but the newspapers and TV news sure connected some strange dots!

The 'Book of Kells' , the beautifully crafted manuscript containing the four Gospels of the New Testament was recommended by a fellow traveller and our tourists ticked that off the list as well. The Trinity College library in which it is housed entertained Mr X with more Vikings stories.

Walking and exploring the city also gave insights into drinking, smoking and fighting that are part of the fabric of Dubliners ( said without judgement as Aussies can't talk) 

Mr X witnessed a fight/ arguement and in no time a crime scene was taped off by police.

In another incident, Ms X also had her mouth open wide when she heard a young woman say to a policeman when asked about some details as he was trying to sort out a disturbance " what's it to you?" The police officer quickly responded with some 4 letter words to her which actually made her understand!

 Ms X had her feet up one day as she bravely gave Mr X map- reading duties in Dublin. Relax, it was only for one day!

Our tourists didn't get to see old Molly Malone this time in Dublin's fair city as her statue was being moved to make room for tram tracks. Maybe next time.

Cliffs, peninsulas and a lovely town called Adare.

A perfectly clear sunny day to see the spectacular Cliffs of Moher 

 

.......time spent just looking and appreciating the views

 

No other words left to describe it other than magical.

When one is winging it, one has to be open to talking and listening to the locals. 

Madeline from Galway:

'Where are you off to now?'

'Why would you be going there?'

'Have you thought of going this way and stopping at the little historical town of Adare?'

That is the advantage of  'winging it'

Our travellers had been planning on going to Limerick. It sounded lovely. It sounded Irish. How were they to know that folk in other towns called it STAB CITY. So that is how they ended up in a little town called Adare. On the recommendation of Madeline, the B&B owner in Galway, Mr and Ms sidled into the town quite late after visiting the cliffs.

There wasn't a lot on of accommodation on offer ( of course the Adare Manor was their back up plan!)

There was a guesthouse in which Mr X was reluctant to try but the clock was ticking by and it was either the guesthouse or drive on.  What a fantastic surprise. A gem made special by the owners, Eileen and Denis her husband.

 Eileen and Denis' guesthouse.

Dinner at Sean Collins place that night gave further recommendations.

Sean:

'Where are you off to now?'

'Why would you be going there?'

'Have you thought of stopping in Adare an additional night, driving down to the Dingle peninsular for the day and then coming back to my pub again tomorrow night to hear some Irish music?'

So that is how the travellers ended up staying an additional night in the Adare Country House with Eileen and Denis.

The next morning Denis and Eileen couldn't help themselves from giving advice on the route to take to the Dingle Peninsular.

Denis and Eileen:

'Where are you off to now?'

'Why would you be going there?'

'Have you thought of taking the right fork in the road and driving through the Connor Pass?'

You guessed it,

They did.

And they went back to Sean's pub to eat and to listen to some music.

Me thinks that Galway Madeline, Adare's Denis and Eileen and the publican Sean are all in cahoots.

And they did drop into the very exclusive Adare Manor to tell them they had found somewhere better to stay!

 The Manor

Sligo to Galway and in between.

 Mr X is a keen 'winging it' kinda person. Let's just drive and discover is his  motto. Ms X on the other hand likes some organisation (that must surprise those who know her) and enjoys having a sense of purpose towards a destination. Sligo ticked a few boxes in the end as for Ms X it was in the general direction needed to be taken for the Cliffs of Mohr.

The drive to Sligo included....

                   ...a moffee stop in Dungannon,

a stretch of the legs in Enniskillen, at the Broadmeadows docks,

 a visit to Belleek, the home of Irish Pottery where even Clinton, Charlie and Tiger had been recently.  

 

 and lots of lovely scenery.

Outside Sligo was Easkey, the ancestral home of the O'Dowd clan. Mr X was in his element examining one of the 10 remaining O'Dowd castle- ruins.

   

 

Ms X enjoyed the local surrounds where the film 'Calvary' had been shot as the pair had just seen this movie whilst in Edinburgh.

One night in the pub in Sligo, some local Sligonians engaged the travellers in conversation, telling them they had to take  'The Green Road' after they had passed Eastey.They told them they couldn't miss it. They did!  They also told them they had to go to Clarenbridge after they passed Galway to make sure they had a bowl of the famous Seafood Chowder at the famous 'Paddy Burkes. That landmark they found. However it was just after noon and Paddy's seemed to be closed with no sign of life.

So they waited

and waited. Across the road, Mass had just finished and the congregation started coming out. Mr X predicted that many would head to the pub and he was right....... Seamus seemed to be following his usual path from Sunday Mass to Paddy Burke's pub however he too, found the door locked. He then asked our travellers why the door was locked and of course they were no help so he soldiered on up the street. After a while the two were about to throw in the towel and continue on their journey when Ms X suggested walking around the side to see if there was another door. There was and they entered only to find many locals already sharing some Guinness and craic, including their friend Seamus!!!! Thanks for your assistance with that.....seems the old Paddy Burke had forgotten to unlock his front door this morning.

The renowned chowder was eaten and the verdict?  The Sligo chowder was much, much better. This one far too creamy and they need to put Seamus on the payroll to open the front door.

Back on the road to Galway with lots of lovely little towns visited along the way.

 

 

Their entry into Galway was through the back way  through Salthill. Fantastic. So so picturesque.

 And their little B&B B overlooking Galway Bay just made it perfect. They had many options for dinner that night but Mr X spied a century old golf club up the street that overlooked the water and that was where they did an 'uncle gorden' and enjoyed a great meal. 

The Galway Bay promenade reminded them of Beaconsfield Parade where everyone enjoys the surprising emergence of the sun. The next morning it was full of families, couples, joggers, dogs but surprisingly no roller bladders or skateboarders. The other thing that the Brightons and Southamptons could take a lesson from their neighbours across the water is the placement of their amusement parks. In Galway they keep the pier for all things things oceanic. And our travellers appreciated that. A top place to visit if you are in Ireland.

Belfast for Beginners.

Growing up, both Mr and Ms X had heard and read media reports of the conflict in Ireland, or more specifically Northern Ireland. Hearing about it and having an understanding about it are two different things. They could tick the box for the first but definitely not the second.

A walk around Belfast was the first eye-opener. Lots and lots of businesses closed and lots of 'For rent/Lease/Sale Signs'. Everywhere was clean, however it wasn't a place in which you would choose to walk alone.

A stop at the museum had been suggested to provide a quick ' Belfast History for Dummies' session.

 

Not a lot of success there. It seemed to jump from the Ice Age to the potato famine to the 1900s..... Hmmm, a bit missing however a mould of St Patrick's hand was impressive.

                 

The next day it was time to call in an expert. 'John' the tour guide picked up Mr and Ms X as part of the Black Cab Tours and personally drove them through the streets of Belfast explaining the conflict, or 'The Troubles' as they are known as.

There are specific areas within Belfast for the past and present warring-factions to reside in and then other areas that are known as mixed areas. There are schools and pubs that either the Protestants (loyalists) attend and  likewise for the Catholics (republicans). There are hidden rules for this city to abide by - hidden for the outsider but well known to those in the community. 

We were driven first into the Shankill area- the Protestant/ Unionist/ Loyalist area. 

The area was bleak and dismal with evidence still remaining of 'The Troubles' of the past and plainly of the current ones. The local school and Nursery school looked almost prison - like.  Houses proudly flew the Union Jack and pictures of the Queen adorned windows.

As Mr amid Ms X walked around the streets it appeared at first like a ghost town, however they felt there were numerous sets of eyes watching them from behind their curtained windows. Their guide, John confirmed this would have been the case.

All through the area, murals appeared on walls, on sides of shops and houses, each telling their own intriguing stories.

  

They each told a story and John briefed us on each.

Some were memorials to the area's deceased heroes whilst some told of previous battles.

  

Next stop was 'the Falls' - the Catholic/ nationalist/ republican sector. Murals were very much part of this area but this community also chooses to highlight other countries' struggles that they believe they have a strong connection to through their International Wall.

 
 

As a reult of the agreement that was signed in 1998 there have been Peace Walls constructed separating these communities. 10 metre high walls with gates in between that are locked each night so that there would be only one entry point into each area each night making it easy to identify any people who are unwelcomed.

THIS IS HAPPENING NOW IN 2014!!!! 

Ms X adds to the messages on the republican peace wall......

The blue fence opposite is the peace wall on the loyalist side.

These two areas are the main segregated areas in the city and the places where the most violence occurred and still occurs although there are pockets throughout the rest of Belfast as well as Derry.

Will this conflict disappear with the next generation? John reassured us that it wouldn't as traditions are passed on in Northern Ireland and this tradition shows no signs of  becoming obsolete.

John summed it up 'it's a trust issue'. 'Its not about religion' he said, 'it's about national identity. One group identify as English and the other as Irish'

Oh how lucky to live in Australia.